Divide spring into 4 segments to optimize the spawning behavior. Pre-spawn, spawn, post-spawn, and late spring require different approaches. [1] X Research source Pre-spawn has you fishing at around 8–15 feet (2. 4–4. 6 m) in depth, spawn moves you up to a shallower depth towards their spawning beds, post-spawn moves you back down to 8–15 feet (2. 4–4. 6 m), and late spring is the optimum time to fish around structures and the shore. During winter and lower temperatures, bass will not expend much effort and will only bite when your lure is immediately within their strike zone. [2] X Research source Bass are erratic during fall but will feed closer to shore as the temperature drops.

Bigger bass often hang out underneath docks.

Use lipless crankbaits if you’re fishing in 1 foot (0. 30 m) of water or if you’re fishing as deep as 50 feet (15 m). You will have to reel faster or use a lighter lure in shallow water, whereas you will reel slower or use a heavier lure when fishing deeper water. [5] X Research source Use a specific lipped crankbait depending on the depth of the water because they are classified as shallow, medium or deep diving based on a 10 lb (4. 5 kg) nylon monofilament or fluorocarbon line. [6] X Research source The lure will not dive as deep if you use a higher pound line. The effect increases as the diameter of the line increases. Use square bill crankbaits or crankbaits with round, stubby lips and sharp angled off noses when fishing for bass in shallow water, around wood or rock. [7] X Research source Deploy medium-diving crankbaits when fishing in a 5–10 feet (1. 5–3. 0 m) range. If you’re fishing 12 feet (3. 7 m) or deeper, use deep-diving crankbaits. Lipless crankbaits can easily be ripped out of grass or bumped along a clean bottom whereas a lipped crankbait will hit something and kick outwards because the lip acts as a deflector. [8] X Research source The shape of your crankbait determines how much movement you will get, which is important depending on the temperature of the water as bass are less active in colder temperatures. With a more rounded-bodied crankbait you’ll get a wide wobble that is attractive to bass that are aggressive, usually when water is warmer; in contrast, a flat crankbait with narrow sides will have a tighter wiggle that is more appealing to bass in cold water who won’t react to large movements. [9] X Research source

Cast close to you first then cast farther away to cover larger areas without spooking the fish. Aim to vary the speed at which you retrieve your cast and the amount of time you let the lure sink before reeling it in. Choose spinnerbaits in standard or weedless. A weedless spinnerbait is a good option if you are fishing in a lot of cover, but are also harder to set the hook on. Add a cheater hook to catch short striking fish. There are 3 major blade types: leaf, Colorado, and Indiana. Each blade type is effective for different conditions. The leaf blade is most effective when fishing through grass and in clear water when you want a fast retrieval. It is a long slender blade with rounded points on either end to allow a faster spin and less water resistance. [12] X Research source Deploy the Colorado blade when fishing at night or in muddy and murky water. The rounded shape allows it to spin slower giving the bass more opportunity to bite. [13] X Research source Utilize the Indiana blade as a compromise to the slower Colorado blade and faster leaf blade. The larger the blade means that it is easier to maneuver around stumps, rocks, and other debris, while narrow blades move quickly through sparse grass. [14] X Research source

In the spring, bright colors work best, and in the fall and winter, black white or gray work well. Choose topwaters that produce a lot of noise and splash to get the bass’ attention. Topwater lures come in walkers, poppers, wakebaits, minnows/twitch baits, prop baits, buzzbaits, and frogs. Each different type of topwater lure is most effective in different conditions. [16] X Research source Walkers are most effective when covering a lot of top water quickly because it keeps the bait in striking distance for the bass. Poppers should be deployed when fishing around stumps, docks, bushes, rocks, and small areas that are covered because these lures will aggravate bass into biting. They are also great for fishing in creeks. Wakebaits work best in clear water when fish are attracted to the V shaped wake. Minnows/twitch baits excel in clear lakes or small areas where bass may spook at aggressive lures. They are great during spawning when bass are guarding their nests. Prop baits should be used in places with a lot of grass, especially during spawning season. They create a lot of movement even without moving a great distance, which keeps them in a bass’ striking range longer. Buzzbaits should be used in sparse grass and places where you feel your lure might get snagged but you still want a topwater presentation. These are most effective after spawning during the late summer. Frogs are meant to mimic real frogs so use them effectively around heavy grass. They can also be used around cover as they are one of the toughest lures to snag. Bot frogs and mice are great for fishing in lily pads.

Bass will usually hit a bait while it is falling, so after it has sat on the bottom for a bit give the rod tip a small twitch to see if anything has picked up your bait. Jigs are most effective when employed in cover or closed to cover so be aware of the risk of getting snagged. Jigs are meant to imitate crawfish so try to make them scoot along the bottom. [18] X Research source Both jigs and plastic worms are best used slowly. Use a ¾-ounce jig when fishing through thick grass. Jigs are also effective when fishing on docks and piers because they provide protection from predators.

Floating plastics can be used just like a topwater, and any type of plastic can be fished weedless to allow fishing in extremely heavy vegetation. Fish with plastic/rubber lures in the Winter when bass are not very active. These lures can still be effective in warmer weather if you employ slightly more movement but the only time these lures are ineffective are when bass are very active. [20] X Research source Plastic/rubber lures work best when water is over 55 °F (13 °C). Use large lures that are 7–10 inches (18–25 cm) when the water is murky but shorter lures that are 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) when the water is clear and the bass are lethargic. [21] X Research source Both rigs and plastic/rubber lures are best used slowly.

For example, use a 10 lb (4. 5 kg) fluorocarbon line to lighten up a deep diving crankbait or you can use the same 10 lb (4. 5 kg) fluorocarbon line to get a medium diving crankbait to stay at its deepest range. [22] X Research source

Remember that the slower you reel, the deeper your lure will swim while reeling fast keeps your lure shallow. [24] X Research source Blade size also affects how deep your lure will go but you can also add a trailer to your hook for buoyancy and movement. [25] X Research source

The lighter the rod is, the more sensitive the rod will be. A shorter rod will give you more accuracy in your cast but a longer rod will give your more power to set your hook, leverage when reeling in your bass, and distance to your cast.

A medium action rod can also be used if it can set the hook and be flexible during your cast. A ⅛-ounce lure needs a light tip while a 314-ounce lure needs a medium tip. A sensitive rod helps you determine what type of structure you’re coming into contact with. A 7 ft (2. 1 m) rod is effective when casting out a far distance and when using heavier baits. A 6 foot rod are more effective for accuracy when trying to cast towards fallen trees or in between structures. Fiberglass rods allow bass to inhale the hook before it’s set as the flex on the rod keeps the hook from becoming dislodged.

When fishing deep water, sensitivity and weight are imperative so you can feel the bites without getting fatigued from holding up the rod in a 9 to 10 o’clock position over long periods of time. Use a 6. 5 ft (2. 0 m) rod when fishing structures 20 feet (6. 1 m) or deeper and a 7. 5 ft (2. 3 m) rod when fishing anywhere shallower than 20 feet (6. 1 m). Graphite is faster and more sensitive than fiberglass, which allows you to set the hook fast. It’s vital to have a soft tip to ensure that there’s tension with the bass at all times as you can easily lose a fish if only the point of the hook is embedded.

Bass will strike lures when they are hungry and when they are irritated.

A savvy angler will work the percentages but don’t be discouraged when you don’t get a bite.

Snap your rod tip downward to activate a poppers concave mouth and narrow tail. Steadily retrieve your wakebait to utilize its sharp angled lip to cause it to shimmy back and forth. Twitch and float minnows/twitch baits back to the surface to attract bass guarding their nests during spawning. Use a series of short jerks on your rod to spray water with prop baits. Steadily retrieve your buzzbait to employ its blade to curl the water, spitting and spraying during quick jerks. Twitch frogs along the top of grass and water to get bass to explode onto your lure.

After the bait has hit the bottom and you have given it a twitch, slowly lift the rod tip until it points straight up in the 12 o’clock position. Let it sit there for a moment and then drop it down to the 9 - 10 o’clock position and reel in the slack. Repeat these steps until your line is in. You’ll have to have a good feel for your line to tell when a fish is biting so most people hold their finger against the line while lifting the rod tip. Look for sudden resistance or bumping on the line, a line that goes slack suddenly or veers sideways. To set the hook, drop the rod tip very quickly to the 3 o’clock position, and pull back hard to 12 o’clock. Use jigs around fallen trees where bass are hiding. Brush piles on a rocky bottom, standing timber, thick grass, and flats are all prime locations to employ a jig. Pitch or flip a jig around the angles where limbs connect to the trunks of fallen trees. Let the jig fall to the bottom with a semi-tight line. [31] X Research source Drag or hop your jig down ledges or drops to mimic the movements of a crawfish.

After the bait has hit the bottom and you have given it a twitch, slowly lift the rod tip until it points straight up in the 12 o’clock position. Let it sit there for a moment and then drop it down to the 9 - 10 o’clock position and reel in the slack. Repeat these steps until your line is in. You’ll have to have a good feel for your line to tell when a fish is biting so most people hold their finger against the line while lifting the rod tip. Look for sudden resistance or bumping on the line, a line that goes slack suddenly or veers sideways. To set the hook, drop the rod tip very quickly to the 3 o’clock position, and pull back hard to 12 o’clock.