Cool climates: If your late summer temperatures are below 80ºF (27ºC), you can plant cauliflower for a fall harvest. Start the seeds 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost. [2] X Research source Warm climates: If you have frost-free winters, you can plant cauliflower seeds later in autumn, once temperatures have dropped below 80ºF (27ºC). Harvest in winter or early spring. [3] X Research source Temperate climates: Spring-planted cauliflower is difficult to grow in most climates. The coastal valleys of California are the only major exception, and can support year-round crops. [4] X Trustworthy Source University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources Extension program of the University of California system devoted to educating and improving local communities Go to source [5] X Research source
Look for “summer” or “tropical” varieties that can handle warmer temperatures than most. Wait about a month after the recommended seed-starting date and buy a transplant from a garden store. [6] X Research source Plant a new batch every week for 4–6 weeks to see which works best. [7] X Research source
You’ll also want to make sure that your growing site has ample room for your cauliflower crop. Generally, cauliflower plants will need to be spaced about 18-24 inches apart.
High organic matter content. This enhances the soil’s ability to hold moisture. High potassium and nitrogen content. Potassium and nitrogen are nutrients vital for the cauliflower’s development. [8] X Research source If these are not present in the soil, it may be necessary to use fertilizer. A pH of between 6. 5 and 7. This “sweet” pH range minimizes the danger of a cauliflower disease called clubroot and maximizes nutrient availability.
Plant each seed in its own peat or paper cup. The biodegradable container lets you “plant” the whole pot in your garden later without damaging the cauliflower’s roots. [9] X Research source Press the seed about 1/4–1/2 inch (0. 6–1. 25 cm) deep and cover it with dirt. Water regularly so the soil is moist but not waterlogged. In cold weather, keep the soil at 70º F (21º C) with bottom heat from a warming plate. [10] X Research source If you must plant your seeds directly in the garden, plant them in rows 3 to 6 inches (7. 5 to 15 cm) apart. [11] X Research source
Before transplanting, move the seedlings outside for one hour a day. Gradually increase this time over the course of a week to “harden off” the seedlings, adapting them to outdoor conditions. If you used a biodegradable container, bury the container in the ground so the soil level is even with the rest of the garden. If you used a non-biodegradable container, remove the seedling carefully to avoid breaking its roots. Make a small hole in the ground and bury the seedling up to its stem. You may want to make a shallow, saucer-like depression around the seedling to help the surrounding soil retain water. Firm the soil and water the seedling. [13] X Research source
Note that rainfall can contribute towards this watering goal. Thus, if you experience frequent rainfall, it’s possible that you may rarely need to water.
Note that rainfall can contribute towards this watering goal. Thus, if you experience frequent rainfall, it’s possible that you may rarely need to water.
Nontoxic pest treatments include diatomaceous earth, soap sprays, and cultural practices such as controlling humidity or introducing predator insects. Look up integrated pest management practices to find out more. You can also use plant-friendly pesticides, but read the label carefully. Using the wrong pesticide or applying pesticide incorrectly could damage your plants or make the vegetable unsafe to eat. To prevent pests from reaching your cauliflower, try cutting old milk jugs in half and laying them over the seedlings for protection.
For a large home garden, you can use a mixture of 5 quarts of fertilizer for every 100 feet (30. 5 m) of crop row. Use a technique called side-dressing to administer your fertilizer to the maturing plant. Dig a shallow, narrow furrow parallel to each row of plants about 6 to 8 inches away from the plants’ stems. Pour the fertilizer into this furrow, rake the soil, and then water. This ensures that the fertilizer can be administered in equal, constant proportions to each plant and helps minimize the danger of over-fertilizing.
Trapping moisture around the head can cause the plant to rot. Confirm the head is dry before blanching, and take care not to get any water on the head while it is bound. Don’t bind leaves so tightly around the head that air cannot reach it. Note that non-white varieties of cauliflower (like purple, green, or orange cauliflower) do not need to be blanched. Additionally, some varieties of white cauliflower are bred to be “self-blanching”, with leaves that naturally protect the head as it grows.
Cauliflower can be stored in a variety of ways. It will last for roughly a week in the refrigerator and can be frozen or pickled for long-term storage. Alternatively, cauliflower can also be stored by pulling the plant up by its roots and hanging it upside down in a cool place for up to a month. [15] X Research source
For subsequent crops, add boron to the soil by mixing in compost or planting cover crops of vetch or clover. [17] X Research source
To prevent clubroot from returning, use one of the following methods: Improve the drainage of your soil by adding organic matter (clubroot thrives in moist environments). Plant a cover crop of winter rye and till it into your soil before planting cauliflower. Rotate your crops. Do not plant brassicas or in the same area two years in a row. Increase the alkalinity of your soil by mixing in hydrated lime in the fall (clubroot thrives in acidic soils) Lay thin sheets of clear, construction-grade plastic over infected soil during sunny weather. Leave in place for 1 - 1. 5 months. The plastic acts as a sort of “greenhouse”, trapping the sun’s rays to heat the soil and kill the fungus.
Additionally, in the event of blackleg, remove all plant debris left over after a harvest. This dead or dying plant material can contain live fungi for months, leading to the re-infection of the next crop. If you have any doubts about whether certain seeds are contaminated with the fungus or not, washing the seeds in hot water can help remove the fungus prior to planting.