If you can’t live without a pot that doesn’t have drainage holes, purchase a slightly smaller plastic container that has drainage holes and fits inside the pot without holes. Grab the saucer that matches your pot. A saucer fits under the pot, collects drained water, and prevents messes. [3] X Research source
If you have a spot for the pot in mind, observe the area before purchasing your plants. Make sure it gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. If it doesn’t, go for a plant marked for shade or partial sun. Full-sun options include most flowering plants, such as petunias, geraniums, salvias, true lilies, canna lilies, and lilacs. Other sun-loving plants include those that bear fruits and vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Most herbs, including basil, lavender, and thyme, also require lots of sun. [5] X Research source
Good flowering options include begonias, impatiens, crocuses, periwinkle, lilies of the valley, and some tulips. Ajuga and coleus are shade tolerant and produce attractive leaves in a range of colors. While they grow best with moderate sun, spider and snake plants tolerate low light levels. They’re popular houseplants and require little maintenance. [7] X Research source
Store-bought potting soil is the best choice for most plants. However, some have specific requirements. If you’re planting orchids, you’ll need to get a growing medium that’s full of bark and other large chunks of organic matter. [9] X Research source Perlite is a volcanic mineral material that increases soil aeration. [10] X Research source Vermiculite is a clay mineral. It can help retain moisture while allowing aeration, though it’s compressible, so perlite is better for aeration. Vermiculite increases the cation exchange capacity (CEC, the ability of the soil to retain positively-charged nutrient ions such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium). [11] X Research source Fruits and vegetables prefer nutrient-rich clay or loam soils that retain moisture. Cacti and other succulents prefer well-drained, sandy soil. Go for a store-bought cactus mix or combine equal parts of sand and potting soil.
Some plants, such as banksias and grevilleas, are phosphorus-sensitive and need a low-acid, low-phosphorus soil. On the other hand, camellias and azaleas thrive in phosphorus-rich acidic soil. Some mineral nutrients (including iron, manganese, boron, copper, and zinc) are more readily available in acidic soils. [12] X Research source Fertilizers that are specifically for acid-loving plants are often enhanced with these nutrients. When shopping for potting mixes, match the soil’s pH and phosphorus levels to the recommendations on your plants’ tags.
Plants like rubber trees, tomatoes, peppers, and carrots usually do best on their own. They have large root systems and consume lots of nutrients. Plants with more modest root systems, like pansies, dusty millers, daisies, ajugas, creeping Jenny, and succulents, do well with other plants. To allow room for growth, space them about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart, or according to the instructions on their tags. [14] X Research source
Fine soil retains water more readily than coarse soil does, so fine soil on top of coarse-grained material results in a perched water table. Water is held more tightly in the small spaces between fine soil particles than in the large spaces between coarse soil particles. [16] X Research source For this reason, loose “filler material” at the bottom of the pot actually interferes with proper drainage. To improve drainage, mix coarse sand or perlite throughout the soil profile in the pot. Pots are a pretty unnatural environment for most plants so generally a deeper pot with an even balance between aeration and water retention throughout the soil profile will make your plants happier.
The space between the soil and rim will also give you room to scoop out holes for the plants.
Don’t pull the stem to remove the plant from the cup, and try to disturb the roots as little as possible. Knock the plants out of their cups one by one. Remove a plant from its cup, transplant it, then move on to the next.
If you’re just growing one plant in an individual pot, you don’t have to worry about planning the arrangement or spacing other plants.
For example, if you have tall grass, spiky Dracaena, or phormium, plant it in the center of the pot. Provided you have a deep enough pot, azaleas, hibiscus, and elephant ears work well as tall focal points.
Great filler plants include coleus, ajugas, and hostas. Petunias, salvias, pansies, and geraniums are popular choices that add pops of color. Good spillers, or plants with foliage that trails over the pot’s edges, include creeping Jenny, clematis, English ivy, and sedum. Space the plants about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart from each other, or according to the instructions on their tags. Don’t worry if the container looks a bit sparse. Your plants need room to grow, and they’ll fill in empty spaces within a few weeks.
Stop watering when you see water leaking from the drainage holes at the bottom. Room temperature water is ideal, especially for tropical plants, like elephant ear, bougainvillea, and orchids. If water from your hose or faucet feels ice cold, fill a pitcher or watering can and allow it to warm to room temperature. [24] X Research source Tap water is usually fine, as long as you don’t use water softeners. Water treated with softeners can cause salt buildup. Distilled water is best for carnivorous plants, like pitcher plants and Venus fly traps. They prefer low-nutrient soil and don’t like the minerals in tap water.
If the container is too heavy to lift and you can’t remove the saucer, use a bulb baster to suck up the water.
If the soil is moist and your finger can easily penetrate it, don’t water the pot. If the soil feels dry and your finger can’t easily penetrate it, your plant needs water. For most plants, watering thoroughly and letting the soil dry completely is better than keeping the soil damp. Roots can’t grow through dry soil, but too much water prevents the roots from getting enough oxygen. Most flowering plants, fruits, vegetables, and herbs need to be watered daily. Cacti and other succulents should only be watered every 2 to 4 days at most. When in doubt, check your plants’ tags and water them as directed.
Use about 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer beads for 1 gallon (3. 8 L) of soil. Spread the granules over the soil, and use your fingers or a small trowel to work it about 2 inches (5. 1 cm) deep. Different nutrient deficiencies have different symptoms. Old leaves could be more affected than young leaves, or the reverse. Leaves can turn yellow around the edges, or between the veins. See [28] X Research source for a pdf file on nutrient deficiency symptoms. In general, flowering plants, fruits, and vegetables need more nutrients than herbs and succulents. During mid-season, or when they produce ripe fruit, fertilize plants like tomatoes and peppers every 1 to 2 weeks. Keep an eye out for yellow leaves, which could indicate you’re over-fertilizing. A white crust on the soil surface can be a sign that you’re not watering enough, or you’re applying too much fertilizer. Plant fertilizers are salts, and can accumulate on the soil surface as water evaporates. Salts interfere with the plant’s ability to take up water. You might need to apply more water, without increasing the frequency of watering. If you see a salt crust, water abundantly (outdoors or in the sink), allowing a lot of water to drain from the bottom of the pot to flush salts from the soil. You don’t have to be fussy about fertilizing herbs, like basil, cilantro, lavender, and rosemary. They’re prone to over-fertilization, so 1 application every 3 to 4 months is best. [29] X Trustworthy Source Penn State Extension Educational organization dedicated to delivering science-based information to people, businesses, and communities Go to source Cacti and other succulents only need to be fertilized once or twice a year.
The nodule looks like a small bump or bud where new growth emerges. If you’re clipping herbs or pruning a rapid grower, avoid removing more than 30% of the plant at a time. Clipping too much can shock and kill the plant. Pruning encourages new growth and will lead to fuller, more robust plants.
Look for a fungicide formulated for your specific plant at a gardening center. Read its instructions, and apply it as directed. Common plant diseases include black or white fungal and bacterial blights, fungal rusts (which are characterized by a rust-colored coating), and cankers, or areas of dead, oozing tissue on wood stems.
Common pests include aphids, ants, gnats, spider mites, and whiteflies. While aphids, ants, and flies are visible, mites are tough to spot. Look for patches of fine webbing with tiny, barely visible specks. Signs of mite infestation include tiny light green spots on leaves and stems, yellow discoloration, and curled or dead leaves. Tiny insects such as aphids, scales, spider mites, whiteflies, mealybugs, etc. can usually be controlled by spraying with soapy water. The soap isn’t toxic. It breaks the surface tension of the water, allowing it to get the insects thoroughly wet and block their spiracles (breathing holes) so they drown. Many sprays sold in garden stores list “potassium salts of fatty acids” as the active ingredient. That’s the chemical description for dish soap. Spray with a well-diluted solution of dish soap and save your money. If you need to use synthetic chemicals, look for an insecticide at a garden center. If you keep your plant indoors, make sure the product is labelled for houseplants. Most plant insecticides are recommended for specific plants and pests. Read your product’s instructions and use it as directed. Check labels for your plants or ask an employee at the garden center for help. Consider the safety for children and pets, and apply sprays outdoors if possible.
