For a quicker process, take a cutting from an existing adult yucca plant. This method is described in the next section.
When transplanting, be careful to dig deep enough to expose its entire taproot. This central, long root can be quite long in some yucca species.
The length and thickness of the cutting do not matter much. A cutting 3–4 in. (7. 5–10 cm) long should be sufficient.
Do not use beach sand, as it contains high salt content. Sand from stream banks is usually acceptable. If you would like, you can dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone or a homemade root stimulant at this point. This is not a necessary step, but it may encourage growth.
If the roots fail to develop, you may wish to try again with a cutting from a larger, more mature yucca plant.
If the plant was kept in a shady location, consider moving the pot to an area of indirect sunlight for a week before moving it into full sun. This gives it time to adjust, reducing the chance of burning or withering.
Alternatively, tightly pack one or two dozen large stones that measure about 1 foot (0. 3 m). (30. 5 cm) in height around the stone bed to form a wall. This is more labor-intensive, but may provide additional drainage.
Only fertilize more quickly if your yucca is a fast-growing species. Most yucca species are slow-growing and can be harmed by excess fertilizer. Similarly, if you miss a monthly fertilization in the summer, it is not a big deal. The plant will likely still grow. Some recommend only fertilizing yucca once a year. This is because yucca can survive well in areas with low nutrients. [11] X Research source
Reduce the frequency of watering if your yucca plant develops brown tips with yellow rings around them. This is a sign of over-watering.
You can also protect the plant by placing a solid sheet of glass or plexiglass over the bed instead of mulch.
