Color is a very difficult way to figure out how valuable a particular piece is, or even its approximate age, but it can help you determine if the piece you’re looking at is real milk glass.
This doesn’t mean that your milk glass is worthless if it doesn’t have the ring of fire. Plenty of collectible pieces were produced later, but these tend to be the most popular among antique collectors.
If you’ve got a flat piece, such as a dish or platter, the pattern is typically around the edge. Lace and basketweave were popular designs for milk glass platters in the mid-19th through early 20th centuries. Some older milk glass was also painted. There’s disagreement among collectors about whether to remove this old paint, especially if it’s chipping. Generally, it doesn’t seem to have much of an effect on the value of the piece either way. [5] X Research source
Mold lines are never in the middle of a pattern—they’ll be on a smooth part of the exterior of the piece. If you have a flat piece, such as a dish or platter, any seam would be along the edge, so it’s unlikely you’ll be able to see or feel it.
If you have an opaque, creamy-colored piece with a hobnail pattern, that’s practically a guarantee that it’s real milk glass. This pattern is most commonly associated with the Fenton glass company, although other glass companies also produced milk glass pieces with hobnail patterns. [8] X Research source
Westmoreland: a keystone with the letter “W” inside (pre-1920); unmarked (1920-1950); a “W” superimposed over a “G” (1950-1980); “Westmoreland” spelled out in a circle with 3 parallel lines (1980-present) McKee: script signature inside the base of a piece, typically an animal covered dish Kemple: circle with a “K” in the center Fenton: “Fenton” script in an oval or scripted “F” in an oval; beginning in 1980, a single number to indicate the decade of production (“8” for 1980s, “9” for 1990s, “0” for 2000s). [10] X Research source Vallerystahl: “Vallerystahl” in script or all-cap print letters; “Vallerystahl” script inside a 5-petal flower[11] X Research source
Grape motifs and beaded edges: Westmoreland Hobnails combined with a crimped or ruffled edge: Fenton Animal designs: Atterbury & Company
Many of these guides and catalogs are available at your local library. Specific milk glass manufacturers often have a lot of images and information available on their website if you happen to know which company made your piece. The National Milk Glass Collectors Society has photo galleries dedicated to specific manufacturers as well as rare and collectible pieces.
Expect to pay anywhere from $100-400 for a professional appraisal. The price typically varies depending on the expertise, skill, and reputation of the appraiser. But be forewarned—the appraisal might end up costing you a lot more than your piece is actually worth. Keep in mind that regardless of an appraisal, there’s never any guarantee as to what your milk glass is worth. Like any collectible, its value depends on what the right buyer is willing to pay for it. [16] X Research source
Typically, older pieces will be rarer and therefore more valuable, especially if they’re in great condition with no chips or scratches. Original or first-run pieces also tend to attract higher prices. For example, a piece stamped with a patent number would indicate that it was one of the original pieces made by the manufacturer who patented that pattern.
