If you plan on using the drip irrigation as a temporary system while your landscaping gets established, mention the expected time frame. The requirements may be lighter. In many areas, including some U. S. states, proceeding without the proper permits or supervision can lead to fines, a court appearance, or even jail time.
Watering needs of each plant. Mark these heavy, medium, or light. Levels of sun or shade. If most of your plants have similar watering needs, use sun exposure to divide your garden. Plants in full sun will need more water than plants in partial or full shade. Soil types: Take this into account if your garden has major soil variation. See below for more information.
Ideally, each drip tube should serve an area with similar watering needs. “Distribution tubing” is a smaller alternative to drip tubing. This can only reach a maximum length of 30 ft (9 m). Use only for potted or hanging plants to prevent clogging. [3] X Research source Typically, the mainline runs along one length of the garden, or around the entire perimeter for large properties.
If the drip system will be permanent, it’s worth the cost of an electric valve that hooks up to an irrigation controller. Manual valves are tedious to operate and often mistakenly left operating for longer than intended. The equipment you buy should come with recommended maximum tube length and GPH. You can also calculate this yourself using hydraulic flow calculations.
Drip emitter: The most common option, this is a smaller diameter line attached to the main tubing. Punch holes using a drip irrigation hole punch anywhere along its length, so the water flows toward the plants. See below for information on types of drip emitters. Pre-installed emitter lines: This drip tubing has evenly spaced emitters, suitable for crops, orchards, and vegetable rows. It also works for shrub beds and other densely planted sites, and even under turf if installed correctly. Micro-sprinkler heads: Halfway between drip irrigation and sprinklers, these low-pressure sprinklers are less efficient but harder to clog, which may be useful in hard water areas. [6] X Research source They work well in shaded area and for plants that prefer misting. Porous pipe: This cheap alternative to drip tubing drips along its entire length, with no way to maintain water pressure or control rate. This is not recommended, as it clogs easily and may have a shorter maximum length. Never mix it with other types of emitters.
Note: regardless of the time of emitter you choose, it should be self-flushing so it stays clear when the zone is shut off. Use pressure-compensating (PC) drip emitters for changes in elevation over 5 ft (1. 5 m). The “PC” label is unregulated, so look up product information and confirm it works with your desired flow rate before buying. Adjustable drip emitters can be water wasting and prone to flooding plants if not checked often. If your plants have varying water needs, it’s usually better to install several standard, color-coded emitters at different strengths (such as 1, 2, and 3 GPH). Turbulent-flow emitters are a good, cheap option for all other purposes. Vortex, diaphragm, and long-path emitters will all work fine. These variations are less important than the differences described above.
Sandy soil: This soil falls apart into grains when rubbed between your fingers. Space 1 to 2 GPH (3. 8 to 7. 6 liters per hour) emitters about 11" (28 cm) apart. Loamy soil: Quality soil, not too dense or loose. Space 0. 5 to 1 GPH (1. 9 to 3. 8 LPH) emitters about 17" (43 cm) apart. Clay soil: Dense clay, slow to absorb water. Space 0. 5 GPH (1. 9 Lph) emitters about 20" (51 cm) apart. If using micro-sprinklers, space them 2–3 inches (5–7. 5 cm) further apart than described above. For trees or other plants with higher water needs, install two emitters spaced evenly around the root zone. Don’t mix and match emitters with different flow rates on the same drip line.
Compare all sizes and threads before purchasing. You’ll need adapters to connect pipes of different size, or to attach “hose thread” to “pipe thread. " If using a lateral line, use black polyethylene tubing. (PVC irrigation piping is only rated for below-ground use. ) If using a mainline, choose piping made from copper, galvanized steel, PEX, sturdy PVC, or heavy polyethylene. Bury PVC to protect it from sunlight. [12] X Research source The size and type of your pipe determines the maximum flow rate. For most homes, ¾” Class 200 PVC pipe is large enough, supporting a flow of 10 gallons per minute. [13] X Research source If your water supply has a higher flow rate than that, increase the size of your pipes and zone valves accordingly.
Don’t forget to protect your lateral line from sunlight using aluminum tape.
Do not bury your drip lines, or they may end up chewed by rodents. Cover them with mulch if you wish to hide them — after you finish installation. Add control valves before each drip line if you want to be able to adjust or shut them off individually.
Do not use a nail or other improvised object, which may create a leaky, ragged hole. [18] X Research source
For metal to metal connections, either wrap the threads with Teflon tape no more than three times, or apply a small amount of pipe thread paste (“pipe dope”). Using too much tape or pipe dope can make leaks worse, especially with soft metals such as brass or copper. Plastic threaded connections seal better than metal and are not designed to work with Teflon tape or pipe dope. Tighten them as far as you can by hand, then use a hand tool to tighten no more than one full turn.
