Clay tiles are considered to be one of the longest-lasting roofing materials available, even substantially longer than concrete ones. While concrete roofing tiles are typically expected to survive 30-50 years, in the right conditions a well made clay roof might be expected to last 100 years. Though durable, clay tiles can be more expensive (and neither option is particularly cheap). One estimate illustrates the importance of the price difference: to place a concrete tile roof on a fairly common home with a roof area of 1,500 square feet could cost between $6,000 and $15,000; it could cost between $10,500 and $45,000 to give a clay tile roof to the same house. [3] X Research source Finally, the color of concrete tiles are more prone to fade over time than that of clay tiles. For any roof that you will likely have for multiple decades, this is certainly an issue to think about.
Gasket nails are a type of nail with an interior plastic cap that will help seal nail holes and prevent leaks. [6] X Research source Underlay or underlayment. This is the water-resistant layer between the tiles and the roof frame and sheathing. A number of varieties are available, but because this is a roof intended to last from 30 to 100 year, it is probably a good idea to invest in one of the heavy-duty options. [7] X Research source Outdoor caulking or sealant. There are a number of caulks or sealants available for outdoor use, but once again it is recommended that you use especially durable and high quality products. This roof could last a lifetime, but it won’t if the materials don’t suit the requirements of the job. [8] X Research source
Without specific information about the type of tile selected, it is impossible to estimate the number of tiles necessary to complete a job. A 100 square foot section of roof could require anywhere from 75 to 400 tiles.
Again, think about the weight involved. The fairly cheap and common shingle roofs that many people have are quite light; if you are transitioning from a light roof to a tile roof, the weight difference will be substantial. For a relatively average house with a 1,500 square foot roof, the total of underlayment and tiles will equal something approaching 8 tons in weight. That’s more than the equivalent of having two large SUVs parked on top of your house. [10] X Research source
Position the first roll of underlayment at one side of the roof, perpendicular to the lower edge (the eave) of the roof. As you roll out the underlay, keep the bottom edge of the material aligned with the edge of the eave but above any metal or synthetic edging that may cover the borders of the eave. Secure the underlayment. Roll out 10 foot (3 m)-long sections at a time, and then secure it with nails separated by intervals of 24 inches (61 cm). Keep all nails at least 2 inches (5. 1 cm) from the edge of the roof. When you reach the end of the roof, cut the underlayment roll to match the edge. Secure the end with nails. Restart at the end of the roof at which you first began. Overlap the underlayment, with the new layer partially covering that which was already applied. There may be a series of lines along the roll of underlayment, and this is intended to show the installer precisely how much the layers should overlap. Treat the top line on the installed layer as you previously had the bottom edge of the eave.
Use two tiles to determine the spacing required for the battens. A minimum of a 3 inch (7. 6 cm) overlap is required for the tiles that do not interlock (interlocking tiles will take care of the measurement for you), and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Factor this in as you determine the locations of the battens. After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing all the way up, making sure to double check measurements as you go along.
If you have not installed battens, you can nail the tiles directly into the sheathing. If you have installed battens first, you will nail the tiles into the battens. You can also use clips to anchor the tiles to the battens. If your are using tiles that tightly interlock, it may not be necessary to nail all the tiles to the sheathing or battens; read the instructions that come with the tiles closely for details.
