If the garment can’t be ironed or there’s no label, sew on the patch instead so you don’t risk melting or damaging the material. The best fabrics for iron-on patches are sturdy ones like denim, canvas, cotton, polyester, or cotton blends. [2] X Research source Vinyl, rayon, nylon, leather, silk, or other animal-product or sensitive fabrics are not good for ironing since the heat can damage them.
If you’re ironing on a patch to cover a hole, place the patch so the edges cover at least 0. 25 in (0. 64 cm) of fabric around the hole. [4] X Research source If you’re ironing on multiple patches or plan to add more later, keep the end result in mind and leave room for future patches. Some popular spots for patches include sweater or jacket elbows, baseball or bucket hats, pockets on jeans or t-shirts, or the back of denim jackets.
If you’re ironing polyester, start with medium heat and raise the temperature if needed. High heat can accidentally burn or discolor polyester. Choose medium heat if your patch is chenille, since the yarn is sensitive to high heat and may burn. Clothes irons are the easiest to use, but any iron (even a hair straightener) can work as long as it’s hot enough to melt the patch’s adhesive.
Take a lint roller to the garment to make sure it’s fuzz-free. If needed, iron out the spot where the patch will go so it lays flat (without steam). [8] X Research source If you’re patching over a hole, trim any loose threads or worn edges with scissors as well. [9] X Research source
On embroidered patches, the adhesive side is the underside. If your patch doesn’t have adhesive, place fusible webbing between the patch and fabric. If you’re ironing on transfer paper, peel the image side and place the image face down (the paper backing on the other side comes off later). If your patch is meant to blend in with the fabric (like to repair a hole), it might need to go on the underside of the garment. Check the patch’s instructions.
Wait for the iron to fully heat up before ironing on the patch. The adhesive needs a high temperature to melt, and a cool iron won’t be as effective.
Flip over the garment carefully in case the patch hasn’t fully stuck to the front yet.
If you’re working with a paper transfer patch, wait 10 minutes for it to fully cool and then peel off the paper backing on top. Once the patch is cool and secure, your garment is ready to wear!
Transfer paper patches can’t be reinforced with sewing.
